Fado & Saudades

‎"Live your life from your heart. Share from your heart. And your story will touch and heal people's souls."                                                                                                                   

Fado is a traditional or typical Portuguese music genre characterized by intense, passionate, mournful lyrics. The word "fado" originates from the Latin word fatum which the English word "fate" comes from. It is often associated with the word "saudades"--an important Portuguese word that has no immediate translation to English, but basically describes a deep, nostalgic feeling of loss or longing for something that one loves, but is apart from. It is coupled with the knowledg that the object of longing might never return or that the love will never come to full fruition. 


My first Fado music experience was here is Lisbon at a place called "Retiro de Baca" where we drank vinho tinto (red wine), while eating many varieties of delicious queijos (cheese) with bread, olives, and chorizo. There were two fadistas (fado singers) accompanied by two guitar players- one playing a portuguese guitar which is smaller with 12 strings and the other a classical guitar. I was swept away with the beautiful Portuguese lyrics while the audience became completely silent and intent on focusing on the singer. During many of the songs that were familiar to the locals, the entire restaurant would join in and begin to sing along! I was lucky to have a Portuguese pal with me-- as I could understand parts of the songs, but my friend was able to translate the full spectrum and depth of the meaning. At the end of the evening I was feeling a mixture of emotions that the music stirred within...


Amelia Rodriguez is probably the most famous Portuguese fadista to popularize this genre, but today one of the best fado singers is Mariza. Here is a song "Barco Negro" (black ship) performed by her to have a taste:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ElLSBx9Jo8

Tourada: Uma Tradição Português

Tourada: a bullfight


Yesterday evening was the last bullfight of the season in Lisbon until next spring. Although hesitant, since a few friends were attending, thought I'd try and experience this Portuguese tradition with them.

When we arrived, outside the beautiful arena Campo Pequeno were boisterous protesters speaking out against the fights. It was tempting to join because of the inhumane nature of this sport. 
                                       In Spain they kill the bulls, but in Portugal they instead stab it with spikes and run them around until good and worn out. Ugh. Then a group of 7 or 8 men lure him towards and grab him by the horns and tail as a "conquest," I suppose.  After 20 minutes, my stomach queasy, I had to get up and leave early. I just couldn't handle the blood, and was mortified to see the bulls confused, upset, breathing heavy. Just couldn't do it.  

      
     The only time I would be back to Campo Pequeno will be to join the protests. Oh well-- I gave the Portuguese tradition a try, but realized it's not something I can enjoy even in the slightest.

Stones in the Road

“Stones in the road? I save every single one, one day I'll build a castle” - Fernando Pessoa

My new life began in Lisboa with one word:

Overwhelming.

To be expected? Certainly. Every time I have tried to sit down to blog something I've been unable to write. The first week and a half  proved to be more difficult due to the fact the apartment I was to live in was not vacated yet-- so I stayed in a room of the landlord's home unable to unpack my bags. I expected the adjustments to be hard at times, and there have been a number of these days... tears, confusion, homesickness, but I'm beginning to feel better and lighter!

We had our Fulbright Orientation last week and a marvelous time getting to know the other Fulbrighters in Portugal, learning about their interesting lives and different researching or teaching assignments  here!

Each day has been busy meeting people, exploring sights in Lisbon, along with being at the University almost daily. This town is quite amazing and I am fascinated with it's rich history and culture. Not to mention the foods are a wealth of deliciousness! Lots of different fish, breads, soups, cheese, sweet treats... I am becoming enamored with the slower pace of living and abundant cafe culture which is bar none to Italy in my opinion. 

Navigating public transportation, the metro, buses, trams is all new business for me in a place I have little familiarity with yet. The language, whoa. I thought I had a decent grasp of the Portuguese basics, but I'm finding it quite frustrating to try to communicate. Where do I go to swim? Yoga?  Groceries? It seems each new day brings growth and challenges hand in hand. 


I finally moved into a rad apartment on the top floor of an old palace one week ago--it's funky and cool, with big windows that open up to see the area of Alfama and the water. But there is no stove, no washer or dryer, and it's about an hour commute via public transport one way to the University. There are no conveniences such as groceries or pharmacies or shopping in close proximity so it's not so practical.... uncertain I will be able to stay here long. But alas, it is beautiful. Here is a view from my window:

A link to photos of some of the things I have been doing thus far!  

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/set=a.10150308169669608.357661.738059607&type=3f

Some highlights include: seeing my first European futbol match (Lisbon's Sporting team against an Italian team), amazing museums, fado music, experiencing Portuguese food culture and night life, making a visit to the the US Embassy in Lisbon, being invited to Parliament for the dedication of the Federalist Papers translated into Portuguese...

Abraços e beijos! (hugs & kisses)

Kristy